Heaven-sent environmentalism in South Korea; Mike Ball reports on an extraordinary protest.
Would you be prepared to die for something you truly believed in? In South Korea environmentalists are taking their protests to extreme measures and capturing the mood of the nation facing up to the realities of the Iraqi war.
Every spring a bird of practically no interest to almost anyone lands at a threatened wetland on South Korea’s coast. The wetland is the 401-square-kilometre Saemangeum, one of the Yellow Sea’s most vital ecological resources, and the bird is the unknown bar-tailed godwit. About the size of a farmyard cockerel, the bar-tailed godwit has just flown non-stop direct across the Pacific Ocean from New Zealand, an incredible journey of about 9,000 kilometres. If the bar-tailed godwit was to lose Saemangeum, the first suitable feeding habitat these birds have seen since leaving New Zealand, up to 30% of the world’s population of bar-tailed godwits will certainly die from exhaustion. But as circumstances stand in South Korea, however, that mortal eventuality is a certainty because Saemangeum is being reclaimed, all 401 square kilometres of it.
It is to be developed and dammed off behind the world’s largest ever seawall and to be turned into unwanted rice fields, industrial zones, a new model city, and unbelievably, the world’s largest golf complex. Until Saemangeum the world had never taken much notice of the ruination of Korea’s unique nature. What was different this time, and what made the international public suddenly sit up and see, was firstly the breathtaking scale of the reclamation and secondly, the activism of Buddhist and Catholic monks in the protest campaign whose level of commitment was simply awe-inspiring.
In Spring 2003 a Catholic priest, Moon Gyu-hyun, and a Buddhist monk, Sukyung, set off on a 330-kilometre Samboilbae journey from Saemangeum to Seoul. The Samboilbae, a penance in fact, took sixty-five days of walking three steps forward, then a full-length prostrated bow stretched out on the ground, repeated and repeated, all the way to Korea’s capital city. Speaking in the UK last year, Sukyung said, “All the people walked three steps and bowed, and walked another three steps and bowed, and walked. We all toiled, wept, and bled all the way to Seoul… I got exhausted on the way, and even had knee surgery. Fortunately, I could recover and join the long slow walk again. It was of course painful, but it was also joyful. It was genuine happiness through repentance.”
Not surprisingly, the world was impressed, but to really understand where the commitment to complete an act of penance such as that came from, you have to look to the announcement the green alliance of Korean spiritual leaders, represented by Moon Gyu-hyun and Sukyung, made before the Samboilbae.
“We hereby sincerely supplicate for life and peace for Saemangeum and the whole world… There has been quite a lot of destruction and death here at Saemangeum tidal flat. It is a great battlefield made of human fault and greed. We can hear the cries of Iraqi children from the suffering breath of Saemangeum tidal flat. We can see that our cold-hearted desire to gain temporary benefit with the cost of this innocent tidal flat’s pain and death, bears no difference to the shameful act of sacrificing guiltless Iraqi people to gain profit.”
Seeing the destruction of Saemangeum and the killing just begun in Iraq as the same has given Korean environmental activism a drive familiar from the Vietnam War. Remember the picture of the Buddhist monk who set himself on fire protesting that war?
Once able to get away with dubious environmental practices without a peep of protest, the Korean powers are now suddenly faced with opponents who firmly believe they are responsible for mass slaughter. On the 3rd February 2005, the Venerable Jiyul Sunim, a Buddhist monk from Naewonsa monastery on Mt. Cheonseong, 420 kilometres from Seoul, had been fasting for one hundred days. In fact, this was her fourth period of hunger resistance, a total of two hundred days. Two days before, the Hankyoreh, South Korea’s major liberal daily, reported in an editorial, “There is a growing social outcry in response to the hunger strike of Venerable Jiyul, whose life is extinguishing like a flame in the wind… We repent for our inability to come up with ideas for dealing with the situation when a monk is looking death in the face, and appeal on the government and the whole of society, that they would seek a solution.”
The situation that the Venerable Jiyul was protesting, and yes, prepared to lay her life down for was the natural destruction that would result from building a railway tunnel through the mountain where her monastery was located. Primary among her concerns was the salvation of the rare clawed salamander. The tunnel in question is the 16-kilometre Won-Hyo tunnel on the Seoul to Busan high speed railway. In October 1994 an Environmental Impact Assessment of the construction was implemented by the Korea Rail Network Authority. This assessment, however, failed to mention the geology of the route: threatened habitats such as twenty-two unique highland swamps, two of which were designated protected areas; as many as nine national natural monuments; and over thirty species of rare flora and fauna including the clawed salamander.
Protesting the invalidity of the assessment and calling for a new Environmental Impact Assessment, the Venerable Jiyul began with civic movements and Samboilbae throughout South Korea. As a result, the then presidential candidate, and now President, Roh Moo-hyun, pledged during his campaign that he would nullify the tunnel and insist on an alternative route. The President however failed to honour this pledge and Venerable Jiyul launched her first hunger strike on February 2nd 2003. Consecutive bouts of the government conceding to her then failing to live up to their promises led to Venerable Jiyul fasting again, beginning October 13th 2003 and ending November 16, then again in July 2004, and then her fourth period of fasting.
Late in the night of the 3rd of February however, just as she was on the verge of death, the Venerable Jiyul won. South Korea’s Prime Minister and the Minister of Environment agreed to the new Environmental Impact Assessment she had been demanding; furthermore, that the assessment was to be conducted under a joint commission, and all construction activities affecting the re-assessment were suspended.
The courage displayed by the Venerable Jiyul can only be guessed at by most of us, but, and perhaps this ought to be regarded as equally significant, her act of incredible courage is simply the visible head of what is amounting to a revolution in South Korean public opinion. While the government attempted to push on with Won-Hyo tunnel and as the Venerable Jiyul lay dying, 100,000 handmade origami salamanders were collected in Seoul’s Central City Square. While in a recent survey, 81% of South Koreans were against the Saemangeum reclamation project, preferring to see the internationally prestigious record-beating development (already having cost their nation billions) abandoned.
With religious leaders from Korea’s four major faith communities – Catholic and Protestant Christians, Buddhists and Won Buddhists – at the sharp edge, environmentalism in Korea now enjoys mass popular support, a real headache for the authorities who until now have relied on their citizens complacency with regards to ecological ruination.
In truth, though, it would be simplistic to say the roots of this change in Korean culture is all to do with the actions of a committed few. The root causes are many, from fishermen losing their livelihoods at Saemangeum, to Koreans with friends in Australia and New Zealand expressing dismay at the destruction of migratory birds they consider just as much theirs, to many Koreans just getting tired of their nation’s low world esteem and recognising good ecological stewardship as an avenue for international credit.
For the flora and fauna of South Korea, what matters is that all of a sudden, the unknown bar-tailed godwit and the even more obscure clawed salamander have defenders prepared to go to great lengths in their cause. Ask almost any South Korean citizen, and they’ll tell you it’s important.
“Mountains, rivers, and oceans have committed no sins. Trees, flowers, wild animals have committed no sins either. It is only humankind that has committed faults and sins. The American invasion upon Iraqi people is just the same shameful sin as Koreans’ ruthless exploitation of their own ecology. War and pollution have the same roots. All wars are futile life killing, just like environmental destruction.
“I find my place for discipline not only in the temple and the quiet retreat, but also wherever Nature is being destroyed. Disappearing tidal flats, cruelly maimed mountains, and rotten rivers are the very sites I find my place for repentance. War-stricken Iraq as well as divided Korea is my place for discipline.
“My Samboilbae has not yet finished. It is just a small beginning. One step for my confession, another step for disciplining my mind, still another step for repentance. I will call up all the lives dying from pollution, all the names being killed in the wars. I believe the green forces are sprouting all over the Earth, the Green Star. In Korea, day-by-day, cries are having strong repercussions for preserving the Earth and resisting wars. I don’t think it is just wishful thinking that the 21st Century will be the age of Life and Peace.
“On returning to Korea, I will set out on a pilgrimage with Do-Beop who came here with me. I will walk and visit all the villages in Korea, and try to sow seeds for Life and Peace. It may take three years or five years. I really don’t know. However, I will walk and walk, with the spirit of Samboilbae,” said Sukyung, speaking at the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds’ Snettisham Reserve, The Wash, UK, in January 2004.
The struggle to save Saemangeum continues. For more information and offers of support see: www.birdskorea.org.
Mike Ball for Yoga Magazine











